Viking’s Danube Waltz (6)

by Richard Langworth on 27 July 2015

con­tin­ued from part 5…

June 6: Pas­sau, Germany

6a-PassauOnce called “Batavia” or “Batavis,” Pas­sau is a charmer of a medieval Bavar­ian town at the con­flu­ence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz, the last out of the Black For­est, spew­ing dark peaty water into the larger, faster-moving rivers.

6b-PassauStreetWith a pop­u­la­tion the same as Man­ches­ter, New Hamp­shire, it draws 1.6 mil­lion vis­i­tors per year, com­pared to 1 mil­lion down at Durn­stein, pop­u­la­tion 400 and a tenth the size. Result: you can move around with­out masses of crowds and enjoy the tran­si­tion archi­tec­ture, Gothic to Baroque.

6e-OrganPassauSt. Stefan’s Cathe­dral has one of the largest organs in the world and the recital there is tremen­dous. Viking crew mem­bers tell us they like Pas­sau best of all the stops and you can see why. It’s laid back, 6d-StStephansPassaupic­turesque and not inun­dated with tourists. It doesn’t seem to be try­ing so hard.

6c-PassauBaroqueTem­per­a­tures were still steam­ing as our Viking guide led us around the sights: just won­der­ful archi­tec­ture, and we don’t think the churches have one square inch of dis­play place left. We bought local cheeses, straw­ber­ries and crusty bread in the open air mar­ket and brought them back to the ship to eat in air-conditioned com­fort. The ship pro­vided lots good Aus­trian reds and Ger­man whites, and local beer on tap. I am afraid we pigged out: a per­fect com­bi­na­tion of local cheese and pro­duce and the ship’s ample bev­er­age lists.

6i-DetailPassau6f-StSetphansCeilingPassauAfter all that heat, we were look­ing for­ward to rainy 60s the next few days in Prague, an “optional extra” to the Danube Waltz Tour, which ends here. The coach ride is four hours, tomor­row morn­ing, through the his­toric Sude­ten­land, the area Hitler claimed and won at Munich, which then had an eth­nic Ger­man minor­ity. Since the war it’s been all Czech. They had their revanche after all.

Next: Prague, Czech Republic

Share this post...Tweet about this on TwitterShare on FacebookShare on Google+Share on LinkedInPin on PinterestEmail this to someone


“Iran is Not Nazi Germany…

July 23, 2015

…And Mark Steyn is not Win­ston Churchill,” writes Tim Reuter in Forbes. —a rather thought­ful piece, though a bit harsh on Mr. Steyn, who offered exactly the right take on Neville Cham­ber­lain: “an hon­or­able man who believed he was act­ing in the inter­est of his country”—just as Churchill eulo­gized him after Chamberlain’s death in 1940. It is […]

Read the full article →

Viking’s Danube Waltz (5)

July 19, 2015

con­tin­ued from part 4… June 5: Linz-Salzburg-Linz & Viking Cui­sine The qual­ity of Viking cui­sine is uni­formly high. There is always a choice of three or four first and main courses, nicely bal­anced between meat, fish and veg­e­tar­ian, with excel­lent soups (and again, there’s no rea­son why you can’t order both a starter and soup). At din­ner, sev­eral staple […]

Read the full article →

HM’s Nazi Salute: Relevant to What?

July 18, 2015

In the Inter­net Age, Must We Know Every­thing? Claim­ing it is “his­tor­i­cally rel­e­vant,” the Sun is defend­ing pub­li­ca­tion of a six-year-old Princess Eliz­a­beth, coached by her mother the future Queen Eliz­a­beth and her uncle the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII, still later the Duke of Wind­sor) rais­ing her arm in the stiff salute now iden­ti­fied with the Nazis. But […]

Read the full article →

Kaiser-Frazer, Gettysburg, July 30

July 14, 2015

My first book, Kaiser-Frazer: Last Onslaught on Detroit (New York: Dut­ton, 1975, reprinted 1980) was based on dozens of inter­views with com­pany engi­neers, styl­ists and exec­u­tives, and packed with rare pho­tos from pro­to­types to per­son­al­i­ties. It won the 1975 “dou­ble crown”: the Antique Auto­mo­bile Club of Amer­ica McK­ean Tro­phy and the Soci­ety of Auto­mo­tive His­to­ri­ans Cugnot […]

Read the full article →